Borobodur occupies a similar place in the imagination to
Angkor Wat: forgotten for centuries, partially buried in volcanic ash and
reclaimed from the jungle in the late 19th century. It is also one
of the most compact and perfect Buddhist monuments in Asia. It's a popular
destination for local Indonesian tourists, but it is getting fewer western
visitors these days, the result of tough economic times and a general lack of
enthusiasm for Muslim destinations.
Before Indonesia was converted to Islam, a gradual process that happened over several hundred years, the country was a patchwork of Hindu and Buddhist belief. Borobodur was constructed by the Sailendra dynasty, who were Buddhists. Construction is thought to have taken place between 750 and 850AD.
Borobodur lays claim to being one of the most elegant and symmetrical mandala-monuments in Asia. In one sense, describing a Buddhist temple as a "mandala" is a true-ism since all Buddhist architecture is based on the concept of a mandala, as the oldest Indian texts on temple designs specify. A mandala, in Buddhist terms, is a palace for the gods and so too are most Buddhist temples. Real-world temples must serve other needs as well, accommodating lay believers, monks and providing space for rituals, so the mandala form is more often than not difficult to discern, though it can still be seen clearly in some Buddhist monuments such as Samye in Tibet.
Borobodur is sometimes described as a mystery, and there are certainly many puzzles. These are made more difficult by the fact that the monument has few inscriptions, and no texts survive in Java from the period when the monument was made. One puzzle concerns the meditating Buddhas on the upper levels: there are six kinds versus the more usual group of five Dhyani Buddhas.The overall form of Borobodur is not hard to understand though: there are several monuments of the same type that are still functioning today, the best example of which is probably the Great Stupa (Kumbum) at Gyantse in Tibet. Something of the atmosphere that once surrounded Borobodur can also be experienced at the Shwedagon in Burma. Like the Shwedagon today Borobodur was once whitewashed, probably gilded and garlanded with flowers too, and filled with pilgrims rather than tourists.
Both Borobodur and the Great Stupa at Gyantse are points that were meant to serve as a destination for - and the culmination of - a pilgrimage. The pilgrim goes on a physical journey that is also a spiritual journey. After traveling for many days or months to reach the spot, the traveler walks around the monument in a clockwise direction, gradually ascending through a pantheon of Buddhist teachings that reflect increasing levels of spiritual attainment. The sculptures of the monument reflect the pilgrim's journey, from mundane concerns through meditation towards the hope (at least) of enlightenment.
I traveled to Borobodur in February during the rainy season, stayed
at the Hotel Manohara near the monument. Seeing the sun rise is a
must-do, and cooler too at 6am than later in the day. There are fewer
visitors in the rainy season, but it rains most days from about 3-4pm
onwards. Weekends are best avoided because of the crowds of local
day-trippers.
To get to Borobodur, fly to Jakarta and then go via road, or fly on to Yogjakarta. It is just a couple of hours drive from Yogja and can be done as a day trip from there, but I recommend staying overnight for at least one night at the monument. Sunrise and sunset have the most interesting light.
Before Indonesia was converted to Islam, a gradual process that happened over several hundred years, the country was a patchwork of Hindu and Buddhist belief. Borobodur was constructed by the Sailendra dynasty, who were Buddhists. Construction is thought to have taken place between 750 and 850AD.
Borobodur lays claim to being one of the most elegant and symmetrical mandala-monuments in Asia. In one sense, describing a Buddhist temple as a "mandala" is a true-ism since all Buddhist architecture is based on the concept of a mandala, as the oldest Indian texts on temple designs specify. A mandala, in Buddhist terms, is a palace for the gods and so too are most Buddhist temples. Real-world temples must serve other needs as well, accommodating lay believers, monks and providing space for rituals, so the mandala form is more often than not difficult to discern, though it can still be seen clearly in some Buddhist monuments such as Samye in Tibet.
Borobodur is sometimes described as a mystery, and there are certainly many puzzles. These are made more difficult by the fact that the monument has few inscriptions, and no texts survive in Java from the period when the monument was made. One puzzle concerns the meditating Buddhas on the upper levels: there are six kinds versus the more usual group of five Dhyani Buddhas.The overall form of Borobodur is not hard to understand though: there are several monuments of the same type that are still functioning today, the best example of which is probably the Great Stupa (Kumbum) at Gyantse in Tibet. Something of the atmosphere that once surrounded Borobodur can also be experienced at the Shwedagon in Burma. Like the Shwedagon today Borobodur was once whitewashed, probably gilded and garlanded with flowers too, and filled with pilgrims rather than tourists.
Both Borobodur and the Great Stupa at Gyantse are points that were meant to serve as a destination for - and the culmination of - a pilgrimage. The pilgrim goes on a physical journey that is also a spiritual journey. After traveling for many days or months to reach the spot, the traveler walks around the monument in a clockwise direction, gradually ascending through a pantheon of Buddhist teachings that reflect increasing levels of spiritual attainment. The sculptures of the monument reflect the pilgrim's journey, from mundane concerns through meditation towards the hope (at least) of enlightenment.
I traveled to Borobodur in February during the rainy season, stayed
at the Hotel Manohara near the monument. Seeing the sun rise is a
must-do, and cooler too at 6am than later in the day. There are fewer
visitors in the rainy season, but it rains most days from about 3-4pm
onwards. Weekends are best avoided because of the crowds of local
day-trippers.To get to Borobodur, fly to Jakarta and then go via road, or fly on to Yogjakarta. It is just a couple of hours drive from Yogja and can be done as a day trip from there, but I recommend staying overnight for at least one night at the monument. Sunrise and sunset have the most interesting light.
