textiles: September 2008 Archives

Ming and Modern Design

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At our Torana An Fu Lu store in Shanghai we have a show ongoing of Chinese silk textile fragments. These range from small pieces like the red silk brocade fragment shown here at far left, up to a complete silk tapestry robe panel from around 1800.

Most of these pieces I've collected in Tibet over the last decade during my regular trips to our workshop in Lhasa. The association between Tibet and Chinese silk textiles might not seem an obvious one at first sight, but in fact it's one of the best places to find old silk, particularly earlier pieces from the Ming dynasty (1353-1644) that interest me most. Chinese silk was used in Tibetan ceremonial robes, altar cloths and other items, and the state of preservation in Tibetan temples is usually better than that found in other parts of China.

As a rug designer, I'm particularly interested in the Ming fragments since they show some of the best characteristics of Ming design: bold designs, a fondness for flowing curves and generous shapes, a nice balance of "figure" and "ground" and a certain freedom and experimentation that is often lacking in designs from later periods.

Cloud designs from this period are a particular favorite of mine, and something I've used in carpet designs for Torana. As an example, I've included a fragment of a red silk cloud brocade that originally formed part of a Tibetan lama's robe, with a Torana rug design (below) that is based on similar cloud shapes. The colors in the carpet design are not characteristically Chinese though, the blue tones on a red ground were inspired by Indonesian batiks (another story entirely).

Textile designs from the Ming period remained fashionable in the early part of the Qing dynasty (17th century), but were replaced at the Chinese court in Beijing by new decorative styles from the 18th century onwards.

The An Fu Lu store show will run during September and October 2008. A map and contact details for our store are at this link.



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"Metersbonwe" is not a name that trips off the tongue for most non-Chinese, but you will know it as a famous clothing brand if you are 20-something and from the PRC. The owner of this Chinese clothing chain, Zhou ChengJian, has recently created what has become China's foremost costume museum, encompassing court robes, Qipao from the 1920s and (above all) the costumes of China's ethnic minority groups.

This is a field that until recently was of interest mainly to foreigners and overseas Chinese. Mr Zhou's revelation came during a visit to the United Kingdom in 2003, when he found that many of the relics exhibited in country houses and museums "were from China, and among them were rare ancient Chinese costumes and ornaments" ... thus inspiring "a sense of duty to protect Chinese costumes of all ethnic groups". He set about building a collection that is now displayed at the Metersbonwe flagship store in Shanghai. I saw the collection a couple of days ago, and it is superb. It's strength lies in some fine and early examples of ethnic costume, particularly in the complete outfits collected by Mr Zhou. the exhibit is also well set out with explanations in both English and Chinese.




Metersbonwe Costume Museum, 387 Nanjing Dong Lu, Shanghai (the museum is housed on the top floor of the 5 storey shop in the pedestrianised part of Nanjing Road)
Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm
admission free
www.mbmuseum.org


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This page is an archive of entries in the textiles category from September 2008.

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